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HiFi TUNING FUSES—DO THEY REALLY MAKE A
DIFFERENCE?
I thought I should try to punch-up the titles to my articles a little bit. Not,
certainly, to the level of the British hi-fi press (“The Naim Supernait—Will It
Really Cure Cancer?”) but maybe shoot for a shade more controversy. We
will see how that works out.
I have been interested in hearing HiFi Tuning’s premium fuses for a while
and have finally broken down and purchased three of them. I have installed
one in each of the Magneplanar MG 10s and the third in the Rogue 90
Stereo Amplifier. Click here for a photo.
DESCRIPTION
The German-made HiFi Tuning fuses use premium materials to remove what
they refer to as the “weak link” and “choke point” in the AC power supply.
Most of us have purchased high quality AC cords, put in higher quality
outlets, and run dedicated AC circuits to insure that our equipment gets the
AC power is needs. All of this improved power is then put through a “five
cent” aluminum fuse. It seems reasonable that a better fuse will potentially
remedy any remaining quality gap in the power chain servicing our
equipment.
The MG 10 fuses are 4 Amp fast blow fuses and the Rogue fuse is a 5 Amp
slow blow. All three are the standard American-sized fuse—one-quarter
inch in diameter and one and one-quarter inches long. HiFi Tuning
constructs these fuses with a ceramic tube using a silver fuse element
surrounded by foam damping. The end caps of the fuse are brass covered
with silver, copper, and gold plating. While these fuses are advertised as
having gold over silver end caps, that is only true of the European-sized
fuses.
HiFi Tuning fuses this size list for $34.95 a piece but I caught mine on sale
at the Parts Connexion. With shipping, they averaged $32.00 each. This is
either a lot of money for a fuse or very little money for an AC upgrade. It
depends upon whether or not they improve the sound of the equipment in
which they are used.
While these fuses are referred to as an “upgrade” nothing is really said as to
how they improve the flow of electricity into your component. The
implication is that the better materials used in their construction accomplish
this. They are also claimed to be “less resonant” due to the ceramic
construction. Whether fuse “resonance” is really a problem that requires
attention has never been discussed to my knowledge.
A CONCERN
While I have wanted to try these fuses for some time, I am not sure that I
am absolutely sold on the claims being made for them. Let us look at the
question of conductivity. An all aluminum fuse has a conductivity of 59.
This is based on a conductivity scale in which copper is 100 (if it is annealed;
89.5 if it is hard drawn. I am not sure which number applies best to the
copper used in these fuses or most cables.) Silver has a conductivity of
106 so the fuse element of the HiFi Tuning fuses is clearly an upgrade over
an aluminum fuse in terms of its conductivity. The question revolves
around the end caps.
As mentioned, the American-sized fuses use brass in the end caps, which
has a conductivity of only 28! The brass is covered with silver (106),
copper (100), and gold (65). What does the conductivity average out to
be? Presumable it is higher than 59. But how much higher? Assuming that
each metal contributes equally to the conductivity (and I doubt that they
do) the resulting conductivity is approximately 75. Is that difference
actually going to make an audible improvement?
Possibly of more concern to an audiophile than the conductivity is the
question of how many transitions between metals the audio signal has to
make. Take the MG 10 fuse setup as an example.
A copper wire brings the audio signal to a steel fuse clip on each MG 10.
With an aluminum fuse, the metal transitions are these: copper wire to steel
clip, steel clip to aluminum end cap/element, aluminum element/end cap to
steel clip, and steel back to copper wire. Four transitions as I count them,
ignoring the solder joints.
Put a HiFi Tuning fuse in the same steel clip and you get 12 transitions!
These are copper wire to steel clip, steel clip to gold plating, gold to copper
plating, copper to silver plating, silver to brass end cap, brass to silver (the
actual fuse element), silver to brass end cap, brass to silver, silver to
copper, copper to gold, gold to steel, and, finally steel back to the copper
wire. I think I have it right. These are a lot of metal-to-metal transitions.
How do these affect the integrity of the signal?
Further, brass is a lousy conductor and it is central to the construction of
these fuses. When I got rid of the brass-based RCA plugs in my system
for gold over copper plugs, there was a major improvement in the sound.
While these construction details concern me, there is no theoretical way to
predict how these fuses will sound. Ultimately, you just have to put them in
the equipment and listen.
LISTENING
I started by putting the fuses in the MG 10s since I expected them to make
the largest difference there. The audio signal travels through the fuses in
the MG 10 to both the midrange and tweeter panels. Prior to my listening
session, I took out the original fuses and cleaned them and the fuse clips
with Caig ProGold G5 contact cleaner. I also treated the gold end caps of
the new fuses. I did not want the connection to be what I ended up hearing
instead of the fuse.
With the system well warmed up, I listened to several CD tracks that I
thought would be useful and made some notes of exactly what I wanted to
listen for after the fuses were switched. When I felt I had the sound of the
system clearly in my aural memory, I switched off the Rogue 90 and
changed fuses in the Magneplanars. The switch-over only took a matter of
seconds.
The last track I listened to before switching fuses was “I will fight and never
slack” from Simple Gifts, Shaker Chants and Spirituals (Joel Cohen and the
Boston Camerata, Erato 4509-98491-2).
This may seem like an odd track to use as a reference but it has both male
and female unaccompanied voice as well as absolutely realistic foot stomps
all performed in a clearly defined acoustic space. After installing the HiFi
Tuning fuses the sense of acoustic space was slightly improved and the
atmosphere around the singers was slightly better defined. My impression
was that the volume also seemed slightly higher. I have used the term
slightly here because subtly is harder to type. The HiFi Tuning fuses clearly
resulted in a small but worthwhile improvement in the sound of this track in
my system.
Another track I listened to was “Where the Green Grass Grows” sung by
Eric Bibb and chorus (Opus 5 Test CD). Again there was the sense that the
volume was slightly louder, while the individuals in the small chorus behind
him were also slightly better defined.
I found this same level of improvement with every track I listened to after
swapping the fuses. The improvement in low level information resulted in a
sound stage/sense of atmosphere improvement. In terms of typical
bass/treble information, I did not hear any differences that I could identify.
I then replaced the AC fuse in the Rogue 90. Because the Rogue had
responded so substantially to upgrading its AC cord, I felt it might also
respond similarly to changing its fuse.
I was wrong. There was no audible change in the Rogue with the better
fuse. Happily, there was no detriment either. I changed fuses back and
forth several times and could not hear any difference. It may be possible
that the fuses will break-in somewhat over time. I will report on that if it
happens.
CONCLUSIONS
I think these fuses will be an improvement in any component where the
audio signal itself travels through them. Every Magneplanar owner should
try them. If my results are typical, there will be a small, but worthwhile,
improvement in the sound.
Where the fuse handles the incoming AC current, which will be most
equipment, I am not sure the cost of these fuses is justified. I heard no
difference in this situation. Of course, every piece of audio equipment is
different and my sample is very small (one) so who knows what equipment
might or might not benefit. From what I have heard, I would not expect
any negative changes in the sound from the installation of these fuses.
Did I get $64 dollars worth of improvement putting these fuses in the MG
10s? I think so. I would have been happier with a bigger improvement but
will take any improvement that I can get.
Like so many tweaks—AC cords, cones, tube dampers, etc.—these fuses
are going to have to be tried in your own equipment to see if they do any
good or not. If you have the opportunity to audition them in your own
equipment, I would certainly do that before buying them as they are not
returnable.
I do not see myself putting them in the rest of my components given the
results that I have gotten. If I changed Magneplanars, however, putting a
set of these fuses in would be one of the first things that I would do.
Kent Johnson
November 26, 2007
PS Similar fuses are also offered by PS Audio under the “Critical Link”
name. Their construction is gold plating over a copper end cap and a
copper element. I did not try them as they do not offer the amperage
values that I need. These fuses are somewhat less expensive and might be
worth checking out as well. Whatever you do, keep the exact same value
fuse in your equipment that the manufacturer specifies.
DIFFERENCE?
I thought I should try to punch-up the titles to my articles a little bit. Not,
certainly, to the level of the British hi-fi press (“The Naim Supernait—Will It
Really Cure Cancer?”) but maybe shoot for a shade more controversy. We
will see how that works out.
I have been interested in hearing HiFi Tuning’s premium fuses for a while
and have finally broken down and purchased three of them. I have installed
one in each of the Magneplanar MG 10s and the third in the Rogue 90
Stereo Amplifier. Click here for a photo.
DESCRIPTION
The German-made HiFi Tuning fuses use premium materials to remove what
they refer to as the “weak link” and “choke point” in the AC power supply.
Most of us have purchased high quality AC cords, put in higher quality
outlets, and run dedicated AC circuits to insure that our equipment gets the
AC power is needs. All of this improved power is then put through a “five
cent” aluminum fuse. It seems reasonable that a better fuse will potentially
remedy any remaining quality gap in the power chain servicing our
equipment.
The MG 10 fuses are 4 Amp fast blow fuses and the Rogue fuse is a 5 Amp
slow blow. All three are the standard American-sized fuse—one-quarter
inch in diameter and one and one-quarter inches long. HiFi Tuning
constructs these fuses with a ceramic tube using a silver fuse element
surrounded by foam damping. The end caps of the fuse are brass covered
with silver, copper, and gold plating. While these fuses are advertised as
having gold over silver end caps, that is only true of the European-sized
fuses.
HiFi Tuning fuses this size list for $34.95 a piece but I caught mine on sale
at the Parts Connexion. With shipping, they averaged $32.00 each. This is
either a lot of money for a fuse or very little money for an AC upgrade. It
depends upon whether or not they improve the sound of the equipment in
which they are used.
While these fuses are referred to as an “upgrade” nothing is really said as to
how they improve the flow of electricity into your component. The
implication is that the better materials used in their construction accomplish
this. They are also claimed to be “less resonant” due to the ceramic
construction. Whether fuse “resonance” is really a problem that requires
attention has never been discussed to my knowledge.
A CONCERN
While I have wanted to try these fuses for some time, I am not sure that I
am absolutely sold on the claims being made for them. Let us look at the
question of conductivity. An all aluminum fuse has a conductivity of 59.
This is based on a conductivity scale in which copper is 100 (if it is annealed;
89.5 if it is hard drawn. I am not sure which number applies best to the
copper used in these fuses or most cables.) Silver has a conductivity of
106 so the fuse element of the HiFi Tuning fuses is clearly an upgrade over
an aluminum fuse in terms of its conductivity. The question revolves
around the end caps.
As mentioned, the American-sized fuses use brass in the end caps, which
has a conductivity of only 28! The brass is covered with silver (106),
copper (100), and gold (65). What does the conductivity average out to
be? Presumable it is higher than 59. But how much higher? Assuming that
each metal contributes equally to the conductivity (and I doubt that they
do) the resulting conductivity is approximately 75. Is that difference
actually going to make an audible improvement?
Possibly of more concern to an audiophile than the conductivity is the
question of how many transitions between metals the audio signal has to
make. Take the MG 10 fuse setup as an example.
A copper wire brings the audio signal to a steel fuse clip on each MG 10.
With an aluminum fuse, the metal transitions are these: copper wire to steel
clip, steel clip to aluminum end cap/element, aluminum element/end cap to
steel clip, and steel back to copper wire. Four transitions as I count them,
ignoring the solder joints.
Put a HiFi Tuning fuse in the same steel clip and you get 12 transitions!
These are copper wire to steel clip, steel clip to gold plating, gold to copper
plating, copper to silver plating, silver to brass end cap, brass to silver (the
actual fuse element), silver to brass end cap, brass to silver, silver to
copper, copper to gold, gold to steel, and, finally steel back to the copper
wire. I think I have it right. These are a lot of metal-to-metal transitions.
How do these affect the integrity of the signal?
Further, brass is a lousy conductor and it is central to the construction of
these fuses. When I got rid of the brass-based RCA plugs in my system
for gold over copper plugs, there was a major improvement in the sound.
While these construction details concern me, there is no theoretical way to
predict how these fuses will sound. Ultimately, you just have to put them in
the equipment and listen.
LISTENING
I started by putting the fuses in the MG 10s since I expected them to make
the largest difference there. The audio signal travels through the fuses in
the MG 10 to both the midrange and tweeter panels. Prior to my listening
session, I took out the original fuses and cleaned them and the fuse clips
with Caig ProGold G5 contact cleaner. I also treated the gold end caps of
the new fuses. I did not want the connection to be what I ended up hearing
instead of the fuse.
With the system well warmed up, I listened to several CD tracks that I
thought would be useful and made some notes of exactly what I wanted to
listen for after the fuses were switched. When I felt I had the sound of the
system clearly in my aural memory, I switched off the Rogue 90 and
changed fuses in the Magneplanars. The switch-over only took a matter of
seconds.
The last track I listened to before switching fuses was “I will fight and never
slack” from Simple Gifts, Shaker Chants and Spirituals (Joel Cohen and the
Boston Camerata, Erato 4509-98491-2).
This may seem like an odd track to use as a reference but it has both male
and female unaccompanied voice as well as absolutely realistic foot stomps
all performed in a clearly defined acoustic space. After installing the HiFi
Tuning fuses the sense of acoustic space was slightly improved and the
atmosphere around the singers was slightly better defined. My impression
was that the volume also seemed slightly higher. I have used the term
slightly here because subtly is harder to type. The HiFi Tuning fuses clearly
resulted in a small but worthwhile improvement in the sound of this track in
my system.
Another track I listened to was “Where the Green Grass Grows” sung by
Eric Bibb and chorus (Opus 5 Test CD). Again there was the sense that the
volume was slightly louder, while the individuals in the small chorus behind
him were also slightly better defined.
I found this same level of improvement with every track I listened to after
swapping the fuses. The improvement in low level information resulted in a
sound stage/sense of atmosphere improvement. In terms of typical
bass/treble information, I did not hear any differences that I could identify.
I then replaced the AC fuse in the Rogue 90. Because the Rogue had
responded so substantially to upgrading its AC cord, I felt it might also
respond similarly to changing its fuse.
I was wrong. There was no audible change in the Rogue with the better
fuse. Happily, there was no detriment either. I changed fuses back and
forth several times and could not hear any difference. It may be possible
that the fuses will break-in somewhat over time. I will report on that if it
happens.
CONCLUSIONS
I think these fuses will be an improvement in any component where the
audio signal itself travels through them. Every Magneplanar owner should
try them. If my results are typical, there will be a small, but worthwhile,
improvement in the sound.
Where the fuse handles the incoming AC current, which will be most
equipment, I am not sure the cost of these fuses is justified. I heard no
difference in this situation. Of course, every piece of audio equipment is
different and my sample is very small (one) so who knows what equipment
might or might not benefit. From what I have heard, I would not expect
any negative changes in the sound from the installation of these fuses.
Did I get $64 dollars worth of improvement putting these fuses in the MG
10s? I think so. I would have been happier with a bigger improvement but
will take any improvement that I can get.
Like so many tweaks—AC cords, cones, tube dampers, etc.—these fuses
are going to have to be tried in your own equipment to see if they do any
good or not. If you have the opportunity to audition them in your own
equipment, I would certainly do that before buying them as they are not
returnable.
I do not see myself putting them in the rest of my components given the
results that I have gotten. If I changed Magneplanars, however, putting a
set of these fuses in would be one of the first things that I would do.
Kent Johnson
November 26, 2007
PS Similar fuses are also offered by PS Audio under the “Critical Link”
name. Their construction is gold plating over a copper end cap and a
copper element. I did not try them as they do not offer the amperage
values that I need. These fuses are somewhat less expensive and might be
worth checking out as well. Whatever you do, keep the exact same value
fuse in your equipment that the manufacturer specifies.